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We did a few farm jobs this morning and even some washing – although operator error caused the fancy/not fancy machine to go into drier mode after the wash when I didn’t want it to and then kept the door locked. Oh dear. Technology got the better of me!

The day began beautifully but by the time we left for our walk a mist had come in. It wasn’t cold, in fact it felt almost humid. We took a picnic lunch and walked along the South West Coast Path, a very narrow and uneven path for an hour or so before finding a spot to watch the ocean, known as the Celtic Sea, before it becomes the North Atlantic Ocean, and closer in is Port Isaac Bay. It consists of 630 miles of scenery now managed by a registered charity founded in 1973 to protect National Trail.

Just over the hill from here is Port Gaverne, more suitable for swimming and kayaking. No jet skis allowed so nice and peaceful.

The temperature rose quite steeply once the cloud burnt off, before coming back in a while later. That’s sea life. It’s a cute wee village.

5 o’clocks sitting against the stone sea wall watching the tide come in ended another happy day. Steak dinner cooked in house this evening will save a few pennies.

It was so hard deciding what to wear today after bike pants and overnight washed shirts for a week 🤣.

We had a nice lazy start watching the tide come in for another blue sky day.

We took the easy option and taxied to the rental car pickup rather than juggle luggage and buses. Excited to get the little Fiat Bambina. It’s so tiny – no Cornish lane will be too narrow!

We couldn’t get into our AirBNB until 4pm so filled in time driving to the larger town of Truro and surrounds, also recognising a few trails we cycled. Most of the towns are around 30-40 minutes apart with some only 10 minutes from here. We bought a few breakfast supplies. Back to reality. Who’s going to make the bed?!

We are a minutes walk to the village. You can see the sea if you stand on one leg and turn your head sideways! But we have a nice view of the many slate roofed cottages.

Today has been lovely and warm – 25 at one point. Port Isaac is just as it looks on the Doc Martin TV show. It’s quite surreal recognising buildings that have been used for other purposes. It is also famous for the Fisherman’s Friends movie based on a true story about a group of Sea Shanties who were signed by Universal records. They still perform at the 18th century Golden Lion pub here. Hopefully this Friday.

Looking forward to a relaxing few days. The forecast is for sun.

We’ve enjoyed an amazing dinner at Rick Steins.

Consensus is: Exceptional service, Exceptional food and Exceptional price ££££. Wonderful experience.

The conversation revolved around the past 8 days of our ride.

It was challenging – without electric bikes we’d have struggled big time.

Every day involved steep climbs, many with long gliding descents. With so much to see, the kms just disappeared and we usually arrived feeling surprised at how quickly we had finished the route.

Beautiful little bays, villages and hamlets with sweet cottages and often magnificent homes and gardens.

The App was mostly good. Sometimes operator error was to blame for the odd extra km 🤣.

Most accommodation was as we expected, with a couple of less desirables, but still cheerful staff and always clean.

Bikes were great. No punctures or lack of battery power. Phew! And no injuries. 🙂.

Downside, was some heavy rain, drizzle, and a few grey starts to the day. Usually followed by sun after lunch. Could be a Cornwall trait.

Biking was a great way to travel the coastline and visit the many coves and villages. And with a bike there’s no hassle with parking. Slow and easy with a chance to enjoy the views.

And the joy of getting into a soft bed after a big day cannot be under rated.

Now it’s time to recharge and relax for a few days in Port Isaac.

We awoke to blue sky and sunshine for our last day of cycling. No jackets required. Hooray.

The route took us along some lovely quiet lanes towards the Eden Project, an educational eco park growing plants from around the world in large domes. The ‘natural’ plantings – ie large overgrown trees and weeds masked any views. Continuing on was an option to visit China Clay pits, so we took the detour along a very rough granite track called the Clay Trails, a landscape apparently well known for its clay tips and pits created by the 250 year old mining industry. At a junction the excursion became quite complicated as unnamed tracks headed off in all directions. The quote was for striking and dramatic scenery.

Basically we saw some ponds overgrown with weeds including stinging nettle, gorse, wild blackberry….The quote continued ‘You can ride them, passing the Eden Project and then into the beautiful UNESCO ‘World Heritage Site’ valley before the pretty village of Luxulyan – the tiny village was very sweet. We stopped here and enjoyed our picnic lunch on a park bench. The clay pits part was such a disappointment, especially as it added at least an extra hour and felt like a waste. Turns out we rode past another lake, after looking at our map, but couldn’t see it. Anyway, onwards and upwards.

The route after this followed beautiful back trails including the
Treffry Viaduct, a 19th-century architectural wonder tucked away in the Luxulyan Valley, near St Austell. It was built between 1839 and 1842 from granite to carry both a tramway and a high level water channel for mining.

Then onto Bodmin where we left the rental car a week ago. The 18th century gaol is now a hotel.

By this time we we were really feeling the effects of the rough ride and were looking forward to the end. We were greeted with a gentle cycle along the Camel Trail of 17 miles. Yes, the UK is still in miles and feet. (Occasionally we’ve seen metres mentioned).

We followed the river towards Padstow and have now completed the loop.

Total for the week 360.48

Congratulations to us!!

Celebratory dinner at the infamous Rick Steins tonight.

Our morning began with a ferry ride from Falmouth to St. Mawes, a remote little yachting harbour at the end of the Roseland Peninsula, which boasts a clover leaf castle built by Henry VIII in 1542.

The week has been hilly, but today was really hilly, visiting various attractive coves on the route, across the pretty Roseland Peninsular, passing through Veryan (with its round houses) Legend has it they were built with no corners so the devil had nowhere to hide. Fascinating.

Then followed Portloe and Portholland,

And then we came across this Castle and surrounds.

The castle was quite a surprise. A pity it was closed. It seems they own a very large area of farmland and private beaches. Quite the Laird.

Then off we went along more country lanes with some steep hills to the old fishing and smuggling village of Mevigassy where we stopped for lunch. It was humming on a Sunday. The sun was shining and all the eateries were fair buzzing.

It seems I was so consumed by the higher view that I forgot to capture the ground level. It was packed. Nice wee lunch plus a rosé. Horrid coffee. Can’t please everyone! The area was mostly pedestrian. Hard to find a safe place for the bikes but it all worked out.

The hilly route continued to our destination of Charlestown. I think these were the hilliest, steepest and longest climbs we’ve had. In fact there was a moment where we didn’t think the bikes were powerful enough to get us up. My legs know they’ve worked today.

This attractive old port was often used as a location for filming including Poldark and Jane Austin’s Persuasion. Apparently there is usually at least one vessel being worked on in the old dock, which gives the place an old fashioned air but today it is beyond saving and awaiting retrieval to be reused in various forms.

The population of Charlestown is approximately 1200 to 1500 residents. The village is managed under the St Austell Bay Parish Counsel.

When it was founded as a quiet fishing settlement in 1790, it had just nine residents. The population later boomed to nearly 3,000 during the 19th-century china clay and shipbuilding boom. There have been a lot of pottery shops in the past couple of days.

It was interesting to see how quickly the tide came in from when we first went to the sea shore.

Because we didn’t recognise there name: From Google: Sub Tropika Sauvignon Blanc is a vibrant, vegan-friendly New Zealand white wine. Produced by Boutinot, it features classic notes of ripe tropical fruit, lime, and crisp minerality. Sourced from the South Island, it pairs perfectly with white fish, seafood, or fresh summer salads.

The bottle even mentions indigenous aromatics!

Final words: Bottled by W1740,DH9 7XP, UK for UK FBO: BOUTINOT LTD,SK8 2GG,UK. EU Importer BOUTINOT France. It tasted fine. I wonder where its origins really lie.

After dinner we needed to walk off our Sunday roast pork with Yorkshire pudding so wandered back to the sea shore only about 5 minutes walk. Music drew us into a pub and another group of Shanty Singers was singing. The locals were really getting into it too. Fantastic.

All and all, a really lovely experience in this town. Being a Sunday, people were out and about aided by the warm 23 degrees.

Another super day, boosted by the sunshine. Strava included the river crossing.

Apple Watch makes it 41.55.

Happy 4th of July!

Being at Helston gave us a head start. The day began with a tiny misty dampness but soon passed with cloudy skies but not really cold. My sidekick tipped over and trying to get onto the busy road’s verge to let traffic pass, and will have a few bruises to show for it. No further injuries thankfully. We pedalled inland to cross Lizard Point just for the photo, a 6km detour, but it was also the most Southerly point in Britain, known to the Romans since the 2nd century. The treacherous reefs have claimed numerous ships and lives over time, with many unmarked graves along the cliffs.

Back on track, the route was supposed to avoid the steepest coastal hills – but it was still jolly steep – passing the heath of Goonhilly Down to St Keverne to view its pleasant village square and churchyard where over 400 shipwreck victims of the nearby Manacle Reef are buried. The church was lovely.

Our ride continued to Helford and around the pretty villages that surround the Helford River.

Here we needed to catch a ferry across the river. At the pick up point we opened the folded orange sign so it could be seen across the harbour. Very cool and £30 please!! And the sun arrived at last.

Finally we arrived in Falmouth, home to the world’s third largest natural harbour and the National Maritime Museum. 

As if we hadn’t cycled far enough, our itinerary took us on a tiki tour of the township. Our hotel is right in the water with lovely views. Happy about that. A wee wander to town to check out where we catch our ferry tomorrow and the day is done. Some quite busy roads today despite them being very rural and narrow. Some feeling like no more than a tractor track and pretty rough. The bikes are not fitted with suspension like we are used to.

Big day. 68.55 kms. Thankful for electric bikes but always battery conscious saving power for the big climbs. Happy days.

After my negative comments about Penzance, it delivered a beautiful blue sky day. It’s amazing how weather can change a feeling. After breakfast we had a wee wander around the surrounding area and enjoyed the early sunshine before setting off.

A shortish travel day allowed us time to pay St. Michael’s Mount a proper visit. From Penzance we rode a flattish ride around Mounts Bay with views over to St. Michael’s Mount with its tidal causeway. Due to the tide we caught a boat over.

Historically, St Michael’s Mount was an English counterpart of Mont-St-Michel in Normandy, France, which we visited last year. It is amazing though, that the St Aubyn family still live in this one after 700 years and use much of it as a home.

The gardens were just lovely, full of many familiar plants and especially those suited to seaside climates.

A really lovely visit, especially enhanced by the weather and our French memory.

Back to our bikes with the road heading inland before reaching Porthleven, another charming fishing village, whose harbour is closed by wooden baulks during storms.

We enjoyed a coffee here before continuing to our hotel at Helston, 6kms further along, due to no vacancy – despite booking last October! It is the most southerly town on the island of Great Britain.  Population approximately 11,000.

Along the way we encountered an amusing scene of a silage machine trying to fit down a very narrow lane. The men had chain saws cutting the trees above and beside the lane. Plus a tractor and silage wagons were trying to fit through. Crazy but funny.

These guys were off to cut grass, but we saw a lot of potatoes, pumpkin, maize, barley and cauliflower. Obviously a horticultural area due to this little honesty stall.

A joyful day. Some pretty steep climbs but a short ride. No rain or ponchos. Even managed t- shirts. Apparently Cornwall turns on all the weather. Rather like Canterbury.

It was a pretty fierce climb out of St. Ives, in less than desirable weather. Low misty cloud with a bit of drizzle.

The roads took us along classic Cornish scenery of small farms with ancient stone walls overgrown with weeds. We could have stopped for a coffee in the small village of Zennor, but was a bit early.

We carried on through several small villages with more tin mining ruins. The village of Saint Just looked rather lovely with its signage in the middle of the town but we decided to roll with the weather and continue to Land’s End.

En route to Land’s End is Sennen Cove, known for seeing Dolphins – not today – also popular for surfing and is known as one of Englands most beautiful beaches.

Unfortunately Land’s End was cold and misty. A quick picnic lunch and look around saw us on our way. But now we’ve been, so all good. We visited the White Cliffs of Dover in Kent in 2012- closest point of UK to France, and now this side. A bit of fun to do.

The ‘First and The Last House’ , now a store sits near the end of the cliff. This is England’s most westerly point, it is possible to see the Isles of Scilly on a clear day. Not today!

Also saw my friend Paddington who I last saw in Edinburgh.

We rode on a diversion road to the tiny beach at Porthcurno which is home to the Minack Theatre, which would have looked like this if open. It is cut into the rock face. Amazing.

Drizzle hung around and we broke out our Temu galoshes and ponchos!!

We continued along the coast, and through the semi tropical valley at Lamorna. At the end is a beach with a tall sea wall. Many walkers come here for the surrounding hilltop walks.

By the time we left here the sun was glowing. Back tracking, the route runs down the coast to Mousehole (pronounced Mowzl’), another picture postcard village, with a history of pilchard fishing and now has a small artists community.

We finally arrived in Penzance still in sunshine. Not sure what I expected as I’ve always associated the name with the musical Pirates of Penzance by Gilbert and Sullivan in 1879.

Roughly 20,000 population. Was once overrun with pirates. Now a serviceable town with fishing and usual market town supplies. Not that exciting. Our hotel was also a surprise. A characterful pub and clientele. Very busy. Basic room but clean. We did have to take a couple of compromises to get our dates so this maybe one. Great meal here and super service.

Big day! 63.37 kms.

Well, the weather Gods looked after us today. A little spot of moisture fell on to my lips a couple of times but came to nothing!! What a difference a day makes. Phew!!

The ride today passed many old tin mine workings, riding to the village of St. Agnes, with a couple of steep descents and ascents into the bays at Porthtreath and Porthtowan, before rolling along the coast road towards Godvrey Head – a national park area,

then Hayle where we tried ‘Philps famous Pasties in Cornwall’. Not as nice at Rick’s.

Many a narrow lane, but way better than the busy roads, which we still encountered. Drivers are fairly forgiving. Just a way of life here I think.

It was fascinating to come across this house being re thatched with possibly triticale – a cross between wheat and rye corn.

St Ives dates back to AD460, when the missionary St. Ia, daughter of an Irish chieftain, landed here and gave her name to the settlement. Protected from Atlantic storms, St Ives was once the most important fishing port in Cornwall, but by the beginning of the 20th century, the fish stocks became depleted and the fishing fleet largely disappeared. However as early as 1811 Turner visited to paint the seascapes and by the late 1880s there were several artists installed and the town became famous for its vibrant artists. Bought my next decoration for the Christmas tree.

Our hotel is tucked into Porthminster Beach, within easy walking distance which is just as well, as our luggage was delivered to a hotel with a similar name. Grrrr!

Delightful little streets with many independent shops. A few cheap and cheerful pubs and bars. As we walked, a seagull swooped and stole a brand new ice cream from someone’s hand and scraped my arm on its getaway. Now I know they have small claws. Ouch.

After a wander around the local establishments we decided our restaurant had the nicest dining options.

So happy to have stayed warm and dry today albeit windy on the cliffs, and ending in sunshine. 49.1kms.

Well that wasn’t the day I had imagined for the past few months, and especially after the heat wave we’ve experienced. The day began with a bit of drizzle, was fine when we left, but then it really turned to custard and then cleared more than enough times.

The route was on quite busy stretches of roads and very narrow lanes. A little stressful at times, when we had to ‘hug’ the hedges to let the traffic past. We saw a ome beautiful scenery through the weather and a lot of camping grounds. Some just in farm paddocks and others more traditional. Also a lot of nice holiday cottages upon farmland.

We sheltered under trees at times. Never a bus shelter to hide in when you need one.

GPS didn’t always play ball so our distance was further than we needed. 49.93kms. The weather was so shite we kept going.

Finally with only 6kms to go the sun came out and we joined a dedicated cycle/walking track.

It was so good to have a warm shower and get feeling back into our hands. Fingers crossed for sunnier skies tomorrow. Our bed and breakfast hotel is up a steep road above the town so we walked down via a public walking trail and had an early pub meal. I think we might have sore bodies tomorrow.

Perranporth is a quintessential seaside resort town famous for its expansive 3-mile golden beach and surfing. Many were still in the water despite the silly drizzly weather.