Over dinner and through the night we travelled to Bamberg. We are now on The River Main (pronounced in German like the English word mine) and one of the more significant tributaries of the Rhine River. The river has been canalized with 34 large locks (300 m x 12 m) to allow vessels to navigate the total length of the river.
The day dawned sunny and warm again, although the nights are a bit cooler.
Bamberg has such an impressive array of historical buildings that it was designated a World heritage listed site in 1983. The Regnitz river runs through the centre of town, separating the old town from the new with a population of around 76,000. Bamberg has 9 brewerles in town and 81 more in the surrounding region which produce over 200 different types of beers. It’s specialty is a unique variety of smoked beer (Rauchbier) which is a dark red ale with a smoky flavour and an aftertaste of bacon. It got the thumbs down by those who tasted it.
Former Monastery, now a retirement homeThese homes back onto the canalThese gorgeous homes are nicknamed Little Venice. You can even have a Gondola ride.Town HallAlong the bottom edge is a ‘leg’ pointing in the direction of the artist’s name. Beautiful Town HallThe third side of the palace was never built. The corner blocks are waiting to be linked. Beautiful rose gardens. E car chargers built into the footpath. They even have heaters so as not to freeze in winter. Very old and curved rooflines
A gorgeous town.
We will spend the afternoon and overnight cruising towards Würzburg.
Because the river is so low we cannot sail to Regensburg so we bussed about 90 mins for a few hours visit. A real bonus as we thought that opportunity was gone.
Entering the old gate to cross the bridge into the city.City Wall – the tower isn’t really crooked! Just the photographer! Oldest bridge in Germany. Entirely made of stone.
We all tasted a special sausage with sauerkraut and a yummy sweet mustard sauce.
All the sausage eaters! Another glorious day to eat sausage. They are famous for a white sausage of pork, beef and parsley. Swapping our vouchers for lunchAnd of course another CathedralMany priests were buried in the cryptPretty coloured buildings And laneways Carved from Wood
A very pretty town.
Nuremberg
Continuing with our whirlwind day we drove another 90 mins to Nuremberg where our next boat was stuck. It too is a lovely town. We had a super young guide, a teacher like many of them are. Nuremberg is smack bang in the centre of Europe.
White Tanners’ Lane, known locally as Weißgerbergasse, features the city’s largest surviving collection of medieval half-timbered artisan houses, which remarkably escaped major destruction during World War II.
Our guide lives near the top of the white and gold house. No air conditioning, so very hot. And cold in winter as poor insulation, but he belongs to a group which maintains these 500 year old buildings and loves living there.
The city is well known for its delicious gingerbread flavoured product.
These gooey chewy biscuits were delicious Chocolate coatings and sprinkles also an option.
We had a panoramic city tour on our way to the boat. So much history in this part of the world.
Nazi rallies once took place here. Now a museum. The Zeppelin Field (interior area 312 x 285 metres, bigger than 12 soccer fields) It had a capacity of up to 200,000 people. This is where mass parades of the German Labour Service, the Wehrmacht, and the “political leaders” (Nazi Party officials) were staged in front of the “Führer,” Adolf Hitler. The “Cathedral of Light” provided spectacular effects when over 150 powerful searchlights projected their beams straight up into the sky. It is still used for concerts.
The crew cheered us in as we finally arrived at the Solara, a week late. Everyone was in good spirits. Most of our crew hail from countries including Serbia, Romania and Hungary.
The top deck is closed off for this leg so as to fit under the bridges. These two performed traditional beer drinking song and dance folk style music encouraging participation. Very entertaining.
Our cruise director Anya has been amazing trying to make the best of the disruptive experience we are having. Not everyone is as forgiving. So she jumped hoops and swung from the trees to get upper management to approve a scenic cruise so that all passengers could enjoy it. A bit of a bummer for us as we could possibly have gone to Salzburg yesterday, but an extra bonus for us really. We retraced some of the river and then finished above Passau. Everyone loved it, and we even saw things we’d missed.
At the entrance to the lockAlso a power plant alongside.
Tomorrow we drive to Regensburg as the river boats can’t get through this stretch. We are not alone. The rivers are lined with stranded boats and busses transporting tourists. After some time there we’ll continue to Nuremberg to board boat number 3, the Solara. The one we’ve actually paid for.
Faber Castelle – crayons and pencils. A random cowboys and Indians type sculpture garden.
We had a super guide for our walking tour of this pretty town. Of course the main attraction is the 13th century St Stephen’s Cathedral which houses the largest pipe organ in Europe – 17974 pipes to be precise. Unfortunately it was behind scaffolding in the never ending refurbishment needed in such old buildings. A 30 minute recital of Bach and Beethoven was enjoyed by many.
Beautiful square in front of the Cathedral
Passau is overlooked by the Veste Oberhaus, a 13th-century hilltop fortress housing a city museum and observation tower. The old town below is known for its baroque architecture.
Upper FortressThe Lower FortressAlso a monastery which you had to climb up 300 odd steps on your knees to be accepted inside. This coloured alleyway runs from the waters edge to the town The cobbles are repainted annually. Historic Memorial to a beer maker. It has pipes below to still pour beer from the tap. You can hire it and the area for events but must have a minimum of 60 litres. Flood levels. There are many like this around the town. When a flood was coming you would name your furniture, put it onto one of many furniture trucks in the town and have it returned afterwards. The executioner once lived here. The executions were by cutting off their heads with an axe. Last one was 1803Enter this tunnel turn, the bendAnd the bend becomes a road. The river is so low, the entry to our ship is below the wharf level.
After much deliberation, we decided to forgo the long day trip to beautiful Salzburg – mainly due to the fact we are unlikely to have much sailing time because of the river situation and needing to dock in one spot for periods of time and do trips from that base. If we hadn’t been to Salzburg only three years ago it would have been a different story. It was a hard call but eight hours cruising opposed to 4-5 hours on a bus and guided tours won. About 20 of us stayed on board and enjoyed a day of more sunshine, some dips in the pool and lovely views along the winding Danube to Passau, the capital of the Bavarian area of Germany.
Impressive suspension bridge with tunnel either side just outside of Melk. Many religious figures in odd places. Quite a few caravans dotted amongst the trees.The ‘blue’ Danube is rather green right now. Lovely settlements along the way. This guy shared the lock! We crossed many locksCrossing the Austrian/German border
It was a beautiful relaxing day. At the confluence of the 3 rivers, the Inn river clouded into the Danube. The smaller Ilz is the 3rd.
The Confluence Inn and Danube
Passau is famously known as the ‘City of Three Rivers’
Whilst most spent the morning in Dürnstein, 10 of us pedalled 35 kms up the Wachau Valley, alongside the Danube to Melk, arriving in time for lunch. We had a few information stops from our two guides along the way. Only two kms from the end, Kaye from our group had a nasty crash resulting in a broken wrist, and a nasty gash and fracture around her eye. Poor lady. (After a frantic time in hospital she was able to rejoin the trip in the evening). We boarded our ship for the next three nights, the Ostara, the sister ship to the one we were booked for. Beautiful scenery.
9 of the 10This is called 1000 barrel mountain – named so, as it yields that number of barrels. 56.5 litres per barrel.
In this valley are 650 wine makers. Many vines were 100 years old and they graft new ones over 25 year periods. All are handpicked by locals, family and friends. A big celebration takes place over this time.
Water is scarce but they have trickle irrigation from wells, used sparingly so the roots dig deep to find their own moisture. This small village of Spitz has some houses dating between the years 900 and 930. The church is 1750 and the small one tucked against it about 1500. The school began in 1385 and has 3 students.The last big flood was two years ago. These walls have two metre panels added to block the water. Age old buildings and a modern sculpture of a nose. We loved the ride. Very warm 37 degrees. Again!
We enjoyed a leisurely explore on board as the temperature rose even higher. Some ventured out with a bus trip to Melk Abbey.
We had a real treat this evening. A visit to this beautiful Palace, which is still lived in, to hear a full orchestra play classical pieces by Mozart and Strauss, alongside 4 soloists.
But first, cocktails A chance to dress upExquisite
It was wonderful. A late supper was provided before we set sail at 11pm to arrive in Dürnstein, Austria for breakfast.
We enjoyed a nice lazy day yesterday whilst others toured Vienna visiting the sights we’d already done.
Today we took a whirl wind drive to Bratislava in Slovakia, only 80 odd kms from Vienna. Another historic town, affected by various wars and ownership battles and now a mix of modern and old buildings. Once a communist country it is now trying to raise its quality of life.
Bratislava Castle rises 80 metres above the Danube and has been a symbol of the city for centuries. Its history dates back to the 13th century. Since then it has undergone many reconstructions and has become the residence of monarchs and an important fortress. After being destroyed by fire in 1811, it was reconstructed only in the 20th century.
Main Castle GatesViews down the Danube This suspended bridge has a restaurant above it, fondly named the UFO by locals!The locals name this housing area LegolandToilet stop was in a beautiful new shopping mall with amazing brass figures. Compass showing distances around the world. This guy in the manhole is nicknamed ‘peeping Tom’These two were on the street. Entering the gates into Bratislava village. Their origin dates to 1311Gorgeous traditional old townOld Town HallOpera HouseRemaining town walls from 1291This guy sketches these amazing pictures using only coffee.This plaque in the pavement commemorates the burning to death or the first witch in 1602. Some interesting monuments depicting war and suffering Cycling through the fields.
Our guide spoke about growing up during the Cold War and being forced to learn Russian along with everyone yearning to see the western world. 69000 Jews lost their lives. She was lucky to have been taught English and many westernised customs by an English family friend. Many have left the country in search of more experiences, and yet the city of half a million seems nice.
There are 47 Embassies in Bratislava but the closest NZ and Australia offices are in Vienna.
55% of electricity is Nuclear. They have many wind turbines and solar.
€1600 average monthly salary. Pension is €800 per month.
It was an enjoyable few hours but it’s really hard to fill in the usually nice ‘free time’ in 38 degree temps. It was HOT!!
We enjoyed meeting a few fellow passengers last night. Our numbers have dropped to 87 with cancellations due to the change of plans. It’s a bit hard when you are already here. We are a group of Aussies, English, Irish and Kiwis.
A pretty cruisy – excuse the pun! – day. We chose to visit St Stephen’s Basilica which was built in 1905 and named after the first King of Hungary. It is full of marble and 3kgs of fine gold leaf covers the rest. A beautiful building once again, which includes the King’s hand, a custom which still happens to this day. When a member of the longstanding Habsburg dynasty dies, a piece of their body must be buried in Hungary.
Bruce Robertson in the white cap was born in Ashburton. Moved to Australia when he was 18. Of all the people to sit with on our first night we chose Bruce and Sally. St Stephen – usually Jesus would be in situOrgan in the Gods.
We enjoyed a panoramic drive around the city, revisiting some spots we’d seen by foot, but with information this time.
Capsule containing the withered hand! The water was dead calm this morning. Parliament is 6cm longer than London Parliament buildings. It was the first in Europe to have central heating and air conditioning. He’s had a few belly rubs!
We also visited Heroes Square which is behind the pools we visited yesterday.
Millennium monument commemorating the seven chieftains who formed Hungary. The Arc Angel Gabriel is missing from the top – away being restored. This pond with hunting museum in the background fills with 8000 ice skaters in winter. These once individually owned homes by Hungarian aristocracy are now owned by the state and are apartments. When the country became communist the aristocrats had to leave Hungary or go to prison.Museums either side of the monument
Three months ago Hungary voted in a new government – one they hope will not be corrupt like the previous ones have been. The population is declining rapidly so they hope for an improvement.
If you have three children the mother doesn’t pay tax.
National sports are water polo and swimming.
Almost 50% of the GDP comes from tourism.
Only 20% of parliament buildings are used. The rest is a museum, sitting empty.
With four months of no rain, the Danube is at its lowest level on record and now there is a fear for power restrictions due to the nuclear power plant needing water to cool it. Vienna uses hydro, so also is at risk.
Our bus ride to Vienna was on a new highway, still under construction, so a bit slower than usual. Busses can travel at 100kph and cars 130kph. At one point we were on a narrow slip in Hungary with Austria on our left and Slovakia on our right. Three countries in a single view. Bizarre. A lot of large harvested grain fields. Sunflowers and maize still desperate for rain, plus chilli plants.
Entering Vienna
30 mins out, a few spots appeared on the windscreen. Not enough to fill the rivers but at least it will wash the dust and cool the air.
Our temporary boat for three nights is lovely.
Our evening dinner was very good. Four courses available and we met some new people. It’s interesting how you gravitate to the like minded.
Today we completed our wish list of Budapest by visiting the Széchenyi Baths, apparently one of the largest spa baths in Europe with 15 indoor baths and 3 grand outdoor pools, saunas, steam rooms and even a rooftop spa greenhouse. Budapest has a long history of thermal springs and these pools turned 100 in 2013. At 40 degrees we opted for a few hours at the outdoor pools. Very relaxing and another great experience.
We paid extra to have a private and tiny dressing room for the visit. Kept everything safe with a wristband key. Room #90High views are available from this tethered balloon outside. Two wines and some crisps. $45!!!!A very large complex of which we saw a smidgeon. Too hot indoors. It was great.A hot day
Pool in the centre and a 23 or 26 degree pool at either end. No kids under 14 years. Bliss.
Corinthia Budapest Hotel – 430 rooms.
We have moved hotels for the night as we group together for our cruise which should have been on our boat, which is moored somewhere along the Danube.
Elegant Foyer Beautiful fresh arrangement.So many nooks and crannies to sit The hotel encompasses three buildings which are connected by atriums.Our entrance hall
We’ve used Ubers today and found the drivers to be very courteous and their cars are spotless, as they were in Vienna. Tonight we will meet our fellow passengers for the next fortnight.
Tomorrow we have one more scenic tour here, and then it’s off back to Vienna, but sadly by bus.
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